Step 5. Draw two lines where the sleeves meet the hands and make stop cuts along these lines. Cut back to these stop cuts from the hands toward the sleeves. Carve small notches in each elbow to represent creases, and round off the inside and outside of both arms. Carve two short sweeping V-cuts along both sides of the upper back area to define the backs of the upper arms.
Photo 11Photo 12Photo 13Photo 14
Step 6. Draw two sets of parallel lines (about 1/4″ apart) down the outer front area of the robe from the arms to the bottom. Make stop cuts along these lines and cut back toward them. This creates the robe trim.
Photo 15Photo 16
Step 7. Draw the mouth and mustache. Make a stop cut along this line and cut up to it. Use a micro V-tool of your choice to carve the mustache and beard. This can also be done with a knife if no V-tool is available.
Photo 17Photo 18Photo 19Photo 20
This completes the carving portion of the Americana Santa. Next week we will paint and finish the project. Stay tuned!
Questions & Comments
Our first comment this week comes from my good friend, Dean Stewart, who struck it rich at a recent antique store. Dean writes:
“Bob
Tool storage is often a topic when carvers gather. I wanted to share this if you want to start a thread. I found this 24 pipe stand at an antique store for $5. It holds all the important carving tools on my table. I can see the tips of all the gouges easily. Notice the Dock yard fourth from the right. It is too small for the hole, so a wine cork became a convenient spacer.
Also, I’m looking to carve a wolf’s head ring. I’m finding that a challenge and wondering if anyone reading your newsletter might have a suggestion on a pattern or instructions for carving a wolf head.”
Pipe rack tool holder
Thanks for the photo, Dean. That’s a great idea, and for $5 you can’t go wrong!
I don’t think many of us would have thought of that…I know I didn’t. I could use something like that on my workbench.
As far as the wolf’s head goes, try googling wolf’s head images and wolf’s head clipart, if you haven’t already thought of that.
How about some of our carvers out there? I’m sure someone has a pattern to share with Dean. Send it in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com
Our second message comes from Keith Goetz with a question about using oil finishes before or after painting with acrylics. Keith writes:
“I think your blog is great! I have a question about oil finishes and acrylic paint. Is it better to apply oil before painting acrylic or can you paint your carving and then apply an oil finish? Thank you!”
That’s a very good question, Keith. Actually, finishing oils can be used both ways although generally, in woodcarving applications the oils are applied before painting with acrylics. The reason for this is that the oil helps to control the paint application in that it slows the rate at which the paint soaks into the wood, and more importantly prevents the colors from bleeding.
On the other hand, finishing oils are widely used, mostly in furniture making to give a hard protective finish to the wood. Such finishes are applied to bare (unpainted) wood. I personally don’t recommend using an oil finish on painted wood. The paint does not allow the oil to dry properly because it just sits on top of the paint rather than soak into the wood.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Since we didn’t get any contributions to the “Carver’s Corner” this week I thought I would show one of my carvings.
Meet Duffy…..Duffy is Santa’s head accountant. He’s been with Santa since the first day Santa opened his workshop. He cooks the books and watches over all of Santa’s expenses; like paint, toy parts, work aprons, and snacks for the elves while they’re working. Duffy is like a magician with a pencil! No matter what the expenses are he always seems to come up with a balanced check book! All the elves in the workshop wonder where Duffy gets the money to buy those expensive Cuban cigars he smokes, and just figure it must be the result of his “creative bookkeeping!” From the sly look on Duffy’s face right now, Santa is probably in the red again…after all red is Santa’s favorite color!
“Duffy” carved by Bob Kozakiewicz
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
This week we have two entries to the “Photo Shop” from my good friend, Phyllis Stone from Pennsylvania. Phyllis has been working hard and doing a lot of carving lately. She writes”
“Hello Bob,
I’m sending you pictures that you can put in your blog.
The cat is carved in sassafras and the whiskers are paint brush bristles that I glued into tiny holes in the cats face. I took a picture of the cat off of Google images and carved it out of a 2” piece of wood.
The owl I started with the initial design of Doug Linkers simple owl but knew right away I wanted to modify it quite a bit to get the look I wanted. I carved the eyes in fairly deep then painted them and then took glass beads from the dollar store, glued them into the edge of the holes and it makes the eyes magnified. It was a bit tricky getting the correct piece of glass to fit the hole perfectly with the glass falling into the hole but I finally managed it. Before doing the eyes I wood burned the entire owl to get it to look realistic. After I had both projects done I put walnut oil on them and a couple of hours later I rubbed it all over.
I am extremely happy with how these both turned out. The owl is for my niece and the cat is for her daughter who are both going thru a very bad time in their life right now so I wanted something to cheer them up, and I think these will do the trick.
Take care!
Phyllis”
Phyllis’s cat
Phyllis’s Owl – Front viewPhyllis’s Owl – Left front viewPhyllis’s Owl – Back view
Both carvings look terrific, Phyllis. I’m sure your niece and her daughter will both love and appreciate them.
Free Pattern
Here’s a nice pattern for all the bird carvers out there:
Eastern Bluebird
News & Announcements
NOTICE: I will be away on vacation during the week including June 24th, so there will be no Wood Chip Chatter posted that day. The next Wood Chip Chatter post will be on July 8th, so since it will be after the July 4th holiday I want to wish everyone a Safe, Healthy and Happy Fourth of July!
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
NOTE: During the months of June, July and August meetings will be held only once per month…
Schedule
6/18 – Chris Wilson – Wilson Wildlife Sculpture
7/23 – TBA
8/20 – Malcom Sharp – Twisted Sticks
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
WOOD CHIP CHATTER NEEDS YOUR PHOTOS!!!
I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share in my “Photo Shop” section. Photos of your carvings liven up the blog’s appearance and make it more interesting. Also, my “Carver’s Corner” is a great way to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. When sending in photos please specify whether you want them for display in “Photo Shop” or if you want me to critique them in the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
KEEP THE CHIPS FLYING!!!
Send in your questions and comments so we can keep Wood Chip Chatter active and keep the conversations going! Effective discussions are one of the best ways to learn about the topics that interest you. Remember, there’s no such thing as a dumb question. Plus we would all love to learn about the unique tips, techniques and products YOU use in your woodcarving process. Send your questions and comments to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Today I am beginning a three-part tutorial series on how to carve and paint my Americana Santa. I hope you will enjoy it and find it useful.
Step 1. Start with a 1″ x 1″ x 6″ block of basswood then follow the pattern shown and mark out your block according to photos 1 & 2 below.
Photo 1Photo 2
Step 2. Make stop cuts all the way around the top and bottom of the hat trim as well as around the nose. Cut back to these stop cuts and begin to thin the hat. Then trim off each of the four corners of the hat trim.
Photo 3Photo 4Photo 5
Step 3. First round off the top and bottom edges of the hat trim. Then carve the hat and nose. Finally, make stop cuts down along the outside edges of the beard from the hat to the elbows. Also, make stop cuts along the top and bottom of the forearms from the tips of the hands back to the elbows.
Photo 6Photo 7Photo 8
Step 4. Starting one third of the way down from the hat on each side of the beard cut back to the stop cut on the outside of the beard on both sides cutting up toward the hat. Then from the one third point continue to cut back to the stop cut along the inside of the upper arms down to the elbows. Cut back to the stop cuts along the bottom of both forearms. Finally, round off all four corners of the robe.
Photo 9Photo 10
Questions & Comments
Dean Bettencourt sent in a comment in respond to last week’s blog post on Walnut Oil vs. Boiled Linseed Oil. Dean commented:
“I just bought Danish oil . Worked really well for my roosters”
Danish oil works okay but I don’t like it for a couple of reasons. First, some Danish oils are made with boiled linseed oil and could darken your carvings over time. Look for a Danish oil that is made with tung oil. It’s much better. The other reason why I don’t like Danish oil is because it polymerizes too fast and get hard. I’ve had it harden around the can top so bad that I couldn’t unscrew the cap (not even with a pair of pliers) so I had to dispose of the whole can. This same process takes place when you apply Danish oil to your carvings. The oil polymerizes and hardens like plastic. I have not seen this happen with Walnut oil.
Someone (anonymous) sent in another comment on last week’s blog post:
“Great read on oils. Have wanted to shift from BLO and walnut is on the list to try. Do you usually source from hardware stores?”
Thank you for your comment! I get my Walnut oil on Amazon but you can probably also get it in grocery stores…perhaps in the salad dressing or baking aisles. Some hardware stores might also carry it.
Cindy Stephens from Lakeview, AR also commented:
“Thank you for the great tips!
Cindy Stephens”
Happy to be of help, Cindy!
I received another great comment from my good friend Phyllis Stone from Pennsylvania regarding Walnut oil and Sassafras. Phyllis writes:
“Good Morning my friend. I just read your blog, awesome as usual. I’m sending these pictures of a cat I’ve been carving from sassafras. I was given this wood from a lumberyard to try. I’ve had it for several years and just recently decided to try it. I did have to spray it several times with water/rubbing alcohol mix since it was a bit on the dry side. I also at times had problems with it splintering, but all in all I love the awesomeness of the grain and am glad I decided to carve the cat using the sassafras. I had considered painting it but have decided to use walnut oil instead after reading your blog about the oil. Is this bought at the grocery store in the baking aisle?”
Phyllis’s Cat WIP 1Phyllis’s Cat WIP 2
Your cat is looking fantastic, Phyllis, and Sassafras was a good choice for it. Once you finish it with a coat or two of Walnut oil it will look awesome. Whatever you do, don’t paint it!
Because the sassafras sat around for several years it dried out and got hard. Once dried out sassafras can tend to splinter, especially if your tools are not really sharp.
Walnut oil should be available in grocery stores. As I mentioned above, check the salad dressing and baking aisles, or you may have to ask.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
I‘m happy to see that we have a couple of entries to the “Carver’s Corner” this week! Douglas Rowe sent in photos of two of his carving he would like me to critique. Douglas writes:
"Here are 2 carvings I did a while ago. Any criticism would be well received.
Keep smiling
Doug"
Thanks so much for your photos, Doug! As always, I'm happy to critique them and give you some pointers wherever I can. First, let's take a look at your "Fisherman" carving.
Doug’s Fisherman
There's a lot to like about the carving, which has a humorous tone to it. I like how you bent the fishing rod and added actual metal line guides to the rod. You did a good job on the ear which seems to be well located on the head, in relation to the face, and the overall proportions of the carving are good.
Perhaps the biggest things that stand out for me are the hands. The right hand doesn't look like it's actually holding the rod. Hold a rod in your own hand and study how it looks. See how the fingers wrap around the rod and how the thumb wraps around the other side. Hands are hard to carve correctly. You might want to practice carving some hands to get the hang of it. Also, try adding more detail to your carvings, like carved hair and eyebrows, which can be done with a small V-tool or even your knife. Try adding shirt collars and buttons, belts, etc. It's the little details that really make a good carving a great carving.
On your next carving make the pupils of the eyes larger. You will get a much more relaxed look to the face.
When it comes to painting, like many carvers, try to go lighter with your paints. Dilute your paints and add them in layers rather than in one heavy coat.
Now let’s take a look at your “Golfer” carving.
Doug’s Golfer
I don’t know which carving you did first but it seems like you corrected almost everything I told you about on your fisherman. The hands are better and carved somewhat more accurately on this one. The left hand seems to be holding the scorecard properly, however the right hand is still incorrect. Again, study your own hand as it holds a pencil and see how it is held between the thumb and the first two fingers while the last two fingers curl under towards the palm.
You’ve added a shirt collar and buttons this time, and I especially like the vest and pin striping on the shirt. The hat is very well carved and is pulled down to the ears where it should be, and the eye pupils look much better.
Use a gouge to carve wrinkles into the clothing. This kind of detail adds greatly to the appearance of a carving. Look at examples of other carvers’ carvings. And as before, hair and eyebrow detail, and thinner paint will make a difference. I hope these comments and tips will be helpful on your future carvings, Doug. Thanks again for submitting them to the “Carver’s Corner”.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
I’m happy to say we have a great number of entries to the “Photo Shop” this week!
Our first two entries were submitted by John Robinson who sent in photos of his mouse and moose carving, and his Barney the Bear carving, John writes:
“Good day Bob, I’m a newbie carver and I just thought I would send out this carving as I have been carving for 1 year. I was very reluctant to show my carvings but I thought it would inspire new carvers to keep going. Happy Carving JR.”
John’s Mouse & Moose
John’s Barney Bear
Those are both fantastic carvings, John, and your mouse and moose carving is delightful and so original. I also like that you mounted Barney on a base. It really dresses up the carving. Never be afraid to show your carvings. Always be proud of what you do. Remember, you may not be as good as a lot of others but you’re also a lot better than many others too. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your great work.
Our next entry is a photo of a Love Bug carved by Heath Paull. Heath writes:
“Love Bug inspired by Betty Padden design.”
Heath’s “Love Bug”
That’s really excellent, Heath! I can see you put a lot of work into it.
Our next photo comes from Nicky Foley who carved a baby Robin.
Nicky’s baby Robin
Our next entry to the “Photo Shop” comes from my good friend Dean Stewart who carved two ddalo style chickens. Dean writes:
“Bob Here are a couple of pictures. There are some chickens I adapted from ddalo_carvings.”
Dean’s ddalo chickensDean’s ddalo chicken
Your chickens look great, Dean! Thanks for sending them in! I’ve been wanting to carve one of those but just haven’t gotten a chance.
News & Announcements
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
NOTE: Beginning in June, through August meetings will be held only once per month…
Schedule
6/18 – Chris Wilson – Wilson Wildlife Sculpture
7/23 – TBA
8/20 – Malcom Sharp – Twisted Sticks
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
The Jersey Hills Wood Carvers (JHWC) club is a small but growing group of wood carvers sharing their time, knowledge and joy of woodcarving. The JHWC generally meets from 7:00 pm to 9:00 pm on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Thursday of each month (when school is in session) at the Jefferson Township High School wood shop classroom.
Membership is “FREE” and open to anyone interested in woodcarving regardless of their ability.
JHWC’s Upcoming Meetings and Events
Jun. 2nd, 16th, 30th
NOTE: The club will not meet during the months of July and August while the high school is not in session.
Because of flammability concerns, many product containers list safety precautions for storage and disposal for varnishes and drying oils as they are flammable, and materials used to apply the varnishes may spontaneously combust. Many varnishes contain plant-derived oils (e.g. linseed oil), synthetic oils (e.g. polyurethanes) or resins as their binder in combination with organic solvents. These are flammable in their liquid state. All drying oils, certain alkyds (including paints), and many polyurethanes produce heat (an exothermic reaction) during the curing process. Thus, oil-soaked rags and paper can smolder and ignite into flames, even several hours after use if proper precautions are not taken. Therefore, many manufacturers list proper disposal practices for rags and other items used to apply the finish, such as disposal in a water filled container.
Boiled linseed oil (aka BLO) is a highly combustible/flammable drying oil which generates heat as it dries. It has all of the same safety concerns as mentioned above (just read the label on the container). Additionally, boiled linseed oil has a strong odor and has been known to darken (wood carvings) over time. I learned this through personal experience.
Fact:
A fire occurred on Feb. 23, 1991, at the One Meridian Plaza Building fire in Philadelphia that resulted in the deaths of three firefighters. The fire was started by spontaneous combustion in linseed oil-soaked rags that were improperly disposed of after use. The fire occurred on the 22nd floor of the 30-story building.
Don’t let this happen to you! Think about it before you use boiled linseed oil again.
SPACER
Walnut oil, on the other hand is extracted from walnuts, (Juglana regia). The oil contains polyunsaturated fatty acids, monosaturated fatty acids, and saturated fats. It is not a drying oil. Walnut oil is completely safe, odorless and is not combustible/flammable in any way as it has a short drying time and does not produce any heat as it dries. There are no special safety precautions listed on its label for disposal of rags and other items used to apply it. Also, through my several years of use, walnut oil has not darkened any of my wood carvings. Walnut oil was one of the most important oils used by Renaissance painters. Its short drying time and lack of yellow tint make it a good oil paint base thinner and brush cleaner. It is also an edible oil widely used in cooking.
Below are two photos that illustrate the damage done to a wood carving due to the darkening effect from the use of boiled linseed oil. Photo #1 shows the carvings after it was originally finished. Photo #2 shows the same carving six years later, which had darkened from the boiled linseed oil used on it.
Original carvingCarving treated with BLO after 6 years
Questions & Comments
Bill sent in a good question this week in relation to one of my very first blog posts back in July, 2021, titled “How Do I Know If My Knife Is Sharp?” Bill writes:
“Great guide. Thanks for sharing this! Do you also have some tips on how to sharpen the knives properly using items that we can find at our house?”
That’s a good question, Bill. In the many years I have been wood carving I have never really seen any non-commercial knife sharpening items that are suitable for sharpening woodcarving knives. The only thing that comes to mind is a sharpening steel used for sharpening kitchen knives. These, however, are not actually designed for the low angles (generally 12o-15o) edges on woodcarving knives and I actually don’t recommend using them.
Using sandpaper is an excellent way to sharpen a knife blade (Search for Scary Sharp Method on YouTube). Anything that’s 600 grit or finer will work. 600 grit sandpaper is coarse enough to take the small nicks out of your blade. If you don’t have nicks in your blade you may not want to start there. Start with 1200 or 1600 grit. Automotive sandpaper because of the extremely fine grits available is ideal for sharpening knives. When sharpening with sandpaper start with a high grit and go increasingly lower. The lower you go, the finer the edge you will get on your blade.
When it comes to honing (stropping) your knives, and I assume that’s what you meant when you said “sharpening”, there are lots of options. The back sides of old belts make ideal strops. Glue them to a board or paint stick. Even the board or paint stick itself will make a good strop as long as the wood is smooth. Many carvers use just a piece of wood with some compound on it.
Cardboard also makes a great strop, particularly the insides of cereal boxes. It can be used with or without compound. You can even try a piece of brown paper bag in a pinch.
Even a piece of rubber, like a tire inner tube (without compound) can be used.
That was a rather long answer, Bill. I hope I addressed your question.
In response to Rick’s question from last time about making glasses for caricatures, here is a little piece on how I do it. I originally demonstrated this in my article titled “Norbert The Elf” in the Woodcarving Illustrated winter 2019 issue #89.
How to Make a Pair of Wire Glasses
Starting 2 1/2″ from one end tightly wrap a 10″ piece of 20 gauge brass wire completely around a pencil (or dowel) one time forming one circular loop. Remove the pencil from the loop. Leave about 3/8″ of wire after the loop and tightly wrap it around the pencil again forming the second circular loop. Remove the pencil from the loop. You should now have two loops with wire sticking out at each end. Bend the end wires back 90o right at the loops to form the ear pieces of the glasses. Trim both ear pieces with wire cutters or pliers. Shape the glasses by hand, as necessary and fit them onto the carving.* You may need to trim the ear pieces a few times until you get the glasses to fit just right. Caution: Be careful not to trim the ear pieces too short. A drop of Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue will hold them permanently in place.
*Note 1: In some cases, holes can be drilled in the temples of your caricature to accommodate the ear pieces. Fit them onto the carving by inserting the ear pieces into the holes that were drilled in the temples.
Note 2: Adjust the sizes of your wire and dowel to fit the size of your caricature.
Greg Meece from Landenberg, PA wrote in with a great tip on how he make wire glasses for his caricatures. Greg says:
“Hi Bob.
It’s Greg Meece, again from Landenberg Pennsylvania. I read on your blog about Rick’s question concerning using glasses on caricature wood carvings. I like using thin brass or silver wire and rolling it around the tapered end of a paintbrush handle to create the right sized lenses.”
These two photos show how Greg used glasses on a caricature he carved:
Greg’s caricature with glasses – Front viewGreg’s caricature with glasses – Right side view
That’s a terrific tip, Greg! I really appreciate your sharing it with everyone.
Connie Teeters from Deland, Florida wrote in with another comment about the use of glasses on caricatures, and also with a good question about how sassafras carves. Connie writes:
“I would like to add that Carving Magazine issued #2, on the cover and inside is the photo gallery and artist profile by Mar v K a i s e r s a t t , it is a character carving of a man doing old fashioned photography but he does have glasses on which is kind of interesting. I do love reading Wood Chip Chatter. I do have a question about the sassafras wood. How does it look when it’s finished and can you carve it.
Connie Teeters, Deland Fl.”
Thank you for writing, Connie! On occasion you do see caricatures wearing glasses, it’s just not that common. I’m happy to hear you enjoy reading Wood Chip Chatter and hope you will continue to do so.
I once carved sassafras in the past and enjoyed carving it. I had sassafras trees growing in my backyard and one night one blew down in a storm. After the tree was all cut up and cleared I cut a piece off to carve a wood spirit as a gift for the neighbor who cut the tree for me. Obviously the wood was still green and contained a fair amount of moisture. It had an ash grey to light brown color, carved well if you took your time, and seemed to hold detail pretty nicely. Sassafras is classified as a hardwood and carves similar to black walnut. Sassafras has a beautiful grain with distinct growth rings that finishes beautifully when treated with oil.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first entry to the Photo Shop this week is a beautiful pineapple carved on a rolling pin submitted by Mr. T.
“Bob…. Wife wanted an addition to her decor so requested the attached. Mr. T”
Mr. T’s Pineapple on a rolling pin
Nice work, Mr. T! I’m sure the Mrs. loved it!
Our next two entries to the Photo Shop come from Kathy Savage. Kathy carves magnificent looking animal carvings that look very realistic. This time she carved a Beagle and a bear for two of her nephews.
Kathy’s BeagleKathy’s Bear
Terrific work as always, Kathy! I’m sure your nephews loved their carvings.
News & Announcements
WOOD CHIP CHATTER NEEDS YOUR PHOTOS!!!
We have not had any entries to the “Carver’s Corner” for several weeks. Don’t be shy, send in photos of your carvings and get them critiqued!
I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share in my “Photo Shop” section. Photos of your carvings liven up the blog’s appearance and make it more interesting. Also, my “Carver’s Corner” is a great way to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. When sending in photos please specify whether you want them for display in “Photo Shop” or if you want me to critique them in the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
KEEP THE CHIPS FLYING!!!
Send in your questions and comments so we can keep Wood Chip Chatter active and keep the conversations going! Effective discussions are one of the best ways to learn about the topics that interest you. Remember, there’s no such thing as a dumb question. Plus we would all love to learn about the unique tips, techniques and products YOU use in your woodcarving process. Send your questions and comments to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
Schedule:
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
5/21 – Dillon Goodson
NOTE: Beginning in June, through August meetings will be held only once per month…
6/18 – Chris Wilson – Wilson Wildlife Sculpture
7/23 – TBA
8/20 – Malcom Sharp – Twisted Sticks
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
Keep a sharp edge, and keep on carvin’!
Funny Bone
How does a pig keeps its feet clean? With ham sanitizer
SASSAFRAS, also called Ague Tree, (species Sassafras albidum), North American tree of the laurel family (Lauraceae), the aromatic leaf, bark, and root of which are used as a flavoring, as a traditional home medicine, and as a tea. The roots yield about 2 percent oil of sassafras, once the characteristic ingredient of root beer.
The tree is native to sandy soils from Maine to Ontario and Iowa and south to Florida and Texas. It is usually small but may attain a height of 65 feet (20 m) or more. It has furrowed bark, bright green twigs, and small clusters of yellow flowers followed by dark blue berries. Sassafras has three distinctive forms of leaves, often on the same twig: three-lobed, two-lobed (or mitten-shaped), and entire.
Sassafras, one of the few economically important genera of the family, has two species in eastern Asia and one in eastern North America; oil of sassafras was once used medicinally, and Native Americans made a tea from the bark and twigs. The family is of great importance in the tropics for its valuable lumber, derived from many different species. Some of the wood remains fragrant for decades after it is cut.
Reader’s Comments
I received two very kind comments from my friends, Danial Sloane and Bill MacDougall last week that I want to share:
1. “Another great chatter Bob I will be putting the report on oils and such in my storage folder for reference. Enjoy your break all the best to you and your family….Danial”
2. “Bob, great job on these articles, thanks for all the extra work you do for us carvers out here in the real world, love all your work too!
Bill MacDougall Amherst, New York”
Thank you for your thoughtful words, Danial and Bill. They mean so much, and I’m always happy to hear that my readers are enjoying Wood Chip Chatter and finding it helpful.
I received a question from Rick about how to make glasses for caricatures. Rick writes:
“Hi Bob,
I don’t see eye glasses included very often on characters but I have some I would like to try that all need eye glasses and not sure how to approach this. I would greatly appreciate any ideas.
Attached are a couple of Peter Rabbit pics following Doug Linkers recent video. A fun carve.
Thanks
Rick Carver”
Rick’s Peter Rabbit
That was a good video Doug did on carving the Easter rabbit and you did a terrific of carving yours, Rick! A pair of glasses would look great on him but you’re right, you don’t often find carvers adding glasses to their caricatures. I did an article for WCI a while back that showed how to make glasses. I’ll pull some information from my notes and put it in the next blog. I’m sure a lot of folks would like to know how it’s done.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first two entries to the Photo Shop this week come from Kathy Savage, an excellent carver who sent in photos of the fireman she carved for her nephew. She saw it in a book and thought he would like it. I’m sure he did!
Kathy’s Fireman – Left side viewKathy’s Fireman – Front view
Kathy’s second carving is a terrific mama fox with her pup, which was a graduation gift for another nephew. I think I would like to be one of Kathy’s nephews!
Kathy’s Fox and Pup
Our next two entries come from Terry Grimm. Terry just finished this Easter decoration and has sent in some Work-In-Progress (WIP) photos along with his finished carving:
Pattern drawn on blankReady for paintFinished bunny carving
Peter Rabbit came out very dapper looking. Nice job, and thanks for the WIP photos.
Terry’s next entry is a comical fisherman caricature he calls “Gone Fishing.”
Terry’s “Gone Fishing”
Thank you very much to Kathy Savage and Terry Grimm for your entries to the Photo Shop this week. Photo Shop photos are always greatly appreciated.
News & Announcements
Lancaster County Woodcarvers Zoom Meeting
(Informal meeting – Open to all)
Tuesday, May 3th, 2022 at 7PM
Zoom meeting: 417 966 8402
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
Schedule:
4/30 – Open Forum Meeting
5/7 – Ken Kuhar
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
5/21 – Dillon Goodson
NOTE: Beginning in June, through August meetings will be held only once per month. These will still be live presentations or demonstrations. The dates for these meetings are yet to be announced.
The following is a Glossary of terms of wood finishes, solvents and the components that go into their chemical makeup. Although this is a bit of a chemistry lesson (I’m a retired chemist), I put this list together to give you an idea of the kinds of substances you are applying to your wood carvings.
Acrylic Paint – a fast drying paint made up of pigment suspended in acrylic polymer emulsion and plasticizers, silicone oils, defoamers, stabilizers or metal soaps. Most acrylic paints are water-based but become water-resistant when dry.
Alcohol – especially ethyl alcohol, that has been denatured: used chiefly as a solvent. Ethyl alcohol is highly flammable.
Danish Oil – a wood finishing oil, often made of tung oil or polymerized linseed oil. Because there is no defined formulation, its composition varies among manufacturers. Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form when it reacts with oxygen in the atmosphere. It can provide a hard-wearing, often water-resistant satin finish, or serve as a primer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish.
Drying Oil – an oil that hardens to a tough, solid film after a period of exposure to air at room temperature. The oil hardens through a chemical reaction in which the components crosslink by the action of oxygen.
*Lac – a resinous substance deposited on the twigs of various trees in southern Asia by the female of the lac insect (Kerria lacca): used in the manufacture of varnishes, sealing wax, etc.
Lacquer – any of various quick-drying, resinous varnishes, especially a resinous varnish obtained from a Japanese tree, (Rhus verniciflua), used to produce a highly polished, lustrous surface on wood or the like. Lacquer is dissolved in lacquer thinner, which is a highly flammable solvent typically containing butyl acetate and xylene or toluene.
Linseed Oil – a colorless to yellowish oil obtained from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). The oil is obtained by pressing, sometimes followed by solvent extraction. Linseed oil is a drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. Owing to its polymer-forming properties, linseed oil can be used on its own or blended with combinations of other oils, resins or solvents as an impregnator, drying oil finish or varnish in wood finishing, as a pigment binder in oil paints, as a plasticizer and hardener in putty, and in the manufacture of linoleum. Oiled wood may be yellowish and is likely to darken with age.
Mineral Oil – any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of higher alkanes from a mineral source, particularly a distillate of petroleum, as distinct from usually edible vegetable oils. Most often, mineral oil is a liquid by-product of refining crude oil to make gasoline and other petroleum by-products. This type of mineral oil is a transparent, colorless oil, composed mainly of alkanes and cycloalkanes, related to petroleum jelly. It has a density of around 0.8–0.87 g/cm3 (0.029–0.031 lb/cu in).
Mineral Spirits – a clear, volatile distillation product of petroleum, used as a common organic thinner for paints and varnishes. Also known as white spirit, mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits.
Polymer – a compound of high molecular weight derived from the combination of many smaller, low molecular weight molecules (monomers). A product of polymerization.
Polymerization – the process of reacting monomer molecules together to form large polymer chains of three-dimensional networks. In the case of drying oils such as linseed oil this process takes place as the oil dries on your carving.
Polyurethane – varnish made with synthetic drying oils that is typically a hard, abrasion-resistant, and durable coating. Popular for hardwood floors but are considered by some wood finishers to be difficult or unsuitable for finishing furniture or other detailed pieces. Polyurethane is comparable in hardness to certain alkyds but generally forms a tougher film. Compared to simple oil or shellac varnishes, polyurethane varnish forms a harder, decidedly tougher and more waterproof film.
Resin – a solid or highly viscous substance of plant or synthetic origin that is typically convertible into polymers. Resins are usually mixtures of organic compounds.
Shellac (varnish) – a varnish made by dissolving shellac in (usually) alcohol or a similar solvent.
Shellac – lac* that has been purified and formed into thin sheets, used for making varnish.
Tung Oil – also known as China wood oil, is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii). Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. Used mostly for finishing and protecting wood, after numerous coats, the finish can even look plastic-like.
Turpentine – any of various oleoresins derived from coniferous trees, especially the longleaf pine, (Pinus palustris), and yielding a volatile oil and a resin when distilled. Used mostly as a thinner for paints and varnishes.
Varnish – a preparation consisting of resinous matter, as copal, rosin or lac, dissolved in an oil (oil varnish) or in alcohol (spirit varnish) or other volatile liquid. When applied to wood, metal, etc., it dries and leaves a hard, more or less glossy, usually transparent coating.
Walnut Oil – oil extracted from walnuts, (Juglana regia). The oil contains polyunsaturated fatty acids, monosaturated fatty acids, and saturated fats. Walnut oil is composed largely of polyunsaturated fatty acids (72% of total fats), particularly alpha-linolenic acid (14%) and linolenic acid (58%), oleic acid (13%), and saturated fats (9%). Walnut oil was one of the most important oils used by Renaissance painters. Its short drying time and lack of yellow tint make it a good oil paint base thinner and brush cleaner.
Wax – a solid, yellowish, non-glycerin substance allied to fats and oils, secreted by bees (also called beeswax), plastic when warm and melting at about 145o F, variously employed in making candles, models, casts, ointments, etc.
SAFETY NOTE ABOUT WOOD FINISHES
Because of flammability concerns, many product containers list safety precautions for storage and disposal for varnishes and drying oils as they are flammable, and materials used to apply the varnishes may spontaneously combust. Many varnishes contain plant-derived oils (e.g. linseed oil), synthetic oils (e.g. polyurethanes) or resins as their binder in combination with organic solvents. These are flammable in their liquid state. All drying oils, certain alkyds (including paints), and many polyurethanes produce heat (an exothermic reaction) during the curing process. Thus, oil-soaked rags and paper can smolder and ignite into flames, even several hours after use if proper precautions are not taken. Therefore, many manufacturers list proper disposal practices for rags and other items used to apply the finish, such as disposal in a water filled container.
There were no Reader’s Questions or Comments nor were there any entries to the Carver’s Corner submitted this week.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
I’m very pleased to see we have several entries to the Photo Shop this week! Your photos are always greatly appreciated and we love to see what you’ve been carving.
Our first entries to the “Photo Shop” this week were sent in by Kathy Savage who wrote:
“thought I would send a few
these were Christmas gifts for 2 nieces
the German Shephard was carved from a photo of her dog that unfortunately passed over the rainbow Bridge a month before I gave it to her
Kathy Savage”
Kathy’s German ShephardKathy’s Lighthouse Relief
Wow, those are magnificent carvings, Kathy! I especially like the German Shephard carving. It’s very realistic. Thank you so much for sending them. That’s so sad to hear about your niece’s dog, though.
Our next “Photo Shop” entry comes from my good friend, Wayne Smith, from Nova Scotia, Canada. Wayne sent in some photos of one of his signature “South Shore Rednecks” carvings:
“Hi Bob, you said you’d like to have a few photos for your blog’s photo shop section. Since I carve mainly SSRN’s ( South Shore Rednecks) and Christmas ornaments, I figured I’d send you some pics of my most recently finished character and save the Santa’s for sometime closer to Christmas.
I look forward to your blog, but understand as we approach summer most carving communities tend to slow up a bit, so every 2 weeks is fine. Maybe next fall when we’ve got all our gardening and other chores taken care of you can go back to a weekly schedule.
Wayne”
Thanks, Wayne! I sure do appreciate the photos and I always love seeing your South Shore Rednecks.
Next we have a photo of a spectacular horse carving by Dick Bonewitz, from Carmel, IN:
“This is a horse I carved in a class with Janet Cordell as the instructor. It was at the Ozark Woodcarving Seminar, which is an excellent seminar. The horse is from a basswood roughout, sanded to 400 grit and sealed with 3 coats of spray lacquer.
Thanks for publishing your newsletter. Please show this one in the next addition
Dick Bonewitz
Carmel In”
Dick’s Horse
Wow, Dick, that’s fantastic! Thanks so much for sending it. Much appreciated!
Free Pattern
Here is a Bunny Rabbit fridge magnet I designed which can also be carved as a sweater or lapel pin. Although this is not really a pattern it’s easily traceable to make your own pattern. It’s a quick and easy carve and makes a great filler for the kids’ Easter Baskets.
Bob’s Bunny Fridge Magnet
News & Announcements
I will be taking a much needed vacation over the Easter break so there will be no Wood Chip Chatter on April 15 & 22. The next Wood Chip Chatter blog will be posted on Friday, April 29.
I want to wish everyone a very Blessed, Safe and Happy Easter!
Upcoming Shows for Spring, 2022
April 23 – Westby, Wisconsin. Carve In 6@ Bekkum Memorial Library, 206 N. Main St., 10am to 4pm. Free admission. Contact John Sutton (608) 634-4396, lbarnfarms@gmail.com; or Bekkum Library (608) 634-4419.
April 30 – May 1 –Fargo, North Dakota. 45th Annual Red River Valley International Wood Arts Festival; Sat. 10-5, Sun. 10-4; Admission: $3.00, Children under 12 free, $7.00 Family rate; For more information: http://www.rrvwoodcarvers.org or contact Show Director, Rhonda Smith 218-839-4259
.May 6–8 – Missoula, Mont. Montana State Woodcarvers Show & Sale; Missoula County Fairgrounds. $4 admission. Sat: 9 -3 ; Sun: 11-5. Tom Collins (406) 529-0239; tomcollins875@gmail.com.
May 7 – Inverness, FL. Nature Coast Carving Club of Citrus Co. show and sale. at 6298 E. Gospel Island Road, Admission $2, Open 9 am-3 pm. Email: naturecoastwcc@gmail.com.
May7–8 – Mountain Home,Ark. North Arkansas Woodcarvers’ show/sale at Baxter Count y Fairgrounds. Sat 10-5; Sun 10 -4. Free admission. Contact: Sandy (870) 431-8070; webmaster @northarkansaswoodcarvers.org. Visit website: http://www.northarkansaswoodcarvers.org.
May 21-22 –Greeneville, Tennessee. Evergreene Woodcarvers Iris Festival Woodcarving Show; First Presbyterian Church in Greeneville. Woodcarvers of all skill levels are invited to compete. For more information please message us on Facebook.
May 21-22 – Sacramento, Calif. Capital Woodcarvers host 50th show at Scottish Rite Center, 6151H St. Sat. 9-5, Sun. 9-4. Alison Cook (916) 485-7893; crystal53@hotmai l.com.
June 11-18 – Maquoketa, Iowa. The Affiliated Wood Carvers present 54th International Woodcarvers Congress at Jackson County Fairgrounds. Website: woodcarverscongress.org.
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
Schedule:
4/9 – Joe You
4/16 – Chris Hammack
4/23 – Brett Andrews
4/30 – Cecilia Schiller – Cranklady
5/7 – Ken Kuhar
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
The Jersey Hills Wood Carvers (JHWC) club is a small but growing group of wood carvers sharing their time, knowledge and joy of woodcarving. The JHWC generally meets from 7:00 pm to 9:00 pm on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Thursday of each month (when school is in session) at the Jefferson Township High School wood shop classroom.
Membership is “FREE” and open to anyone interested in woodcarving regardless of their ability.
Last week I posted Part 1 of a photo nose tutorial done by my good friend, Tony Harris from Tennessee. Tony is an excellent carver who creates his own Santa ornaments and was gracious enough to share his expertise with us on how he carves noses. Because of the number of photos in this tutorial I have broken it into two parts of 8 photos each. Part 2 consists of Photos 9-16.
Part 2
Sharp tools are important. Before you begin, make sure your tools are sharp. Keep them sharp as you go with periodic stropping.
Photo 9. Use an inverted #7 gouge to round off and shape the bridge of the nose.
Photo 9
Photo 10. Use a 2mm Dockyard gouge to re-form the ball on the tip of the nose.
Photo 10
Photo 11. Deepen the nostrils with the 3mm Dockyard gouge.
Photo 11
Photo 12. Use the 1/4″ #6 gouge to define the bottom tip of the nose.
Photo 12
Photo 13. Use the #6 gouge around the outside of the nostrils to clean up around the nose.
Photo 13
Photo 14. Finished carving. Front view.
Photo 14
Step 15. Finished carving. Right side view.
Photo 15
Photo 16. Finished carving. Left side view.
Photo 16
NOTE: Substitute alternate tool sizes and shapes as necessary according to the size of your project.
Questions & Comments
I got some very much appreciated comments and compliments this week from Jim Shay who said:
“Great articles this week Bob. Will follow the tutorial Carving a Nose. I too struggle with them. Always ends up much smaller than in the beginning stages due to cleaning up my inferior cuts. Thanks for your continued excellent work with Wood Chip Chatter Jim Shay”
Thank you so much for your kind words, Jim! It’s comments like yours that keep me moving forward when I feel like my blog efforts are just not working. It’s knowing there are folks like you who look forward to reading Wood Chip Chatter every week.
Next we have a question from Dick Bonewitz from Carmel, IN who wants to know what is the best bench top dust collector for power carving. Dick writes:
"I have a question about dust collection when power carving. Specifically, what personal bench top collector Is the best ? There are several brands available at different price points and features.
Thanks
Dick Bonewitz
Carmel In"
Well, Dick, that’s actually an impossible question to answer because there is no one correct answer. If you ask 10 different people you will probably get 10 different answers. There are many factors that must be considered when any carver is looking for a bench top dust collector. For example, there are price, size, quality and power (cfm) just to name some top considerations.
A dust collector priced at $500 is going to be of much better quality than one priced at $300, but if you’re on a tight budget and can only afford the $300 unit, then that one might be the best one for you. On the other hand, someone with a bigger budget might choose the $500 unit for its better power, size and quality.
Here’s something else to consider. Take my situation as an example. My workbench is only 5′ long by 18″ deep. Let’s say I’m looking at two dust collectors…one draws 1000 cfm and is 18″ long, the other is 12″ long but only draws 500 cfm. I would love to have the more powerful unit but it’s too big for my workbench. So even though the 1000 cfm model is better I have to settle for the smaller, less powerful unit, considering that one as the best one for my needs.
Basically, it comes down to personal needs and preferences. There are a lot of good bench top dust collectors out there. Don’t knock yourself out looking for the best one…it doesn’t exist. Look for one that fits your needs and budget, and buy it from a reputable dealer who will stand behind their product. The same thing holds true for any tool or equipment you buy.
Heath sent in a comment just to say:
“Thanks for the great nose tutorial.”
You’re welcome, Heath! I hope everyone found it helpful. I’m always trying my best to keep Wood Chip Chatter informative and interesting every week.
Free Pattern
News & Announcements
Beginning on April 29 Wood Chip Chatter will be published every other Friday.
39th Annual Showcase of Woodcarvings
CPCC Main Campus
1128 Elizabeth Ave. Charlotte, NC 28204
April 2 & 3 10am to 4pm
150 Carvers Vendors Seminars
FREE Admission FREE Parking
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310 460 3575
Schedule:
4/2 – Steve Tomashek
4/9 – Joe You
4/16 – Chris Hammack
4/23 – Brett Andrews
4/30 – Cecilia Schiller – Cranklady
5/7 – Ken Kuhar
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
Lancaster County Woodcarvers Zoom Meeting
(Informal meeting – Open to all)
Tuesday, April 5th, 2022 at 7PM
Zoom meeting: 417 966 8402
Unfortunately, we had no contributions to the Carver’s Corner or the Photo Shop this week so Wood Chip Chatter appears rather empty.
WOOD CHIP CHATTER NEEDS YOUR PHOTOS!!!
I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share in my “Photo Shop” section. Photos of your carvings liven up the blog’s appearance and make it more interesting. Also, my “Carver’s Corner” is a great way to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. When sending in photos please specify whether you want them for display in “Photo Shop” or if you want me to critique them in the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
KEEP THE CHIPS FLYING!!!
Send in your questions and comments so we can keep Wood Chip Chatter active and keep the conversations going! Effective discussions are one of the best ways to learn about the topics that interest you. Remember, there’s no such thing as a dumb question. Plus we would all love to learn about the unique tips, techniques and products YOU use in your woodcarving process. Send your questions and comments to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
This week I am introducing Part 1 of a photo nose tutorial done by my good friend, Tony Harris from Tennessee. Tony is an excellent carver who creates his own Santa ornaments and was gracious enough to share his expertise with us on how he carves noses. Because of the number of photos in this tutorial I have broken it into two parts of 8 photos each. Part 2 will follow next week.
Part 1
Sharp tools are important. Before you begin, make sure your tools are sharp. Keep them sharp as you go with periodic stropping.
Step 1. Draw 4 perpendicular vertical lines each 1/4″ apart. Mark the hat brim and bottom of the nose, then draw a horizontal line approximately half way between the hat brim and the bottom of the nose.
Photo 1
Step 2. Use a #9 gouge to scoop out two eye sockets and to scoop out around the bottom and sides of the nose. Pay attention to the reference marks in the photo.
Photo 2
Step 3. Stab a #6 gouge straight into the outer edges of where the outer wings of the nose will be. Cut back to these cuts with the same tool.
Photo 3
Step 4. Use a 2mm Dockyard gouge to form the ball on the tip of the nose. Use a small #9 gouge to carve away the side of the nose up to the eye sockets.
Photo 4
Step 5. Use a 1/4″ #6 gouge to carve the bottom tip of the nose. Then use a 3mm Dockyard gouge to carve the nostrils.
Photo 5
Step 6. Soften all the sharp edges with a detail knife. Then draw the face layout for reference.
Photo 6
Step 7. Side view.
Photo 7
Step 8. Deepen the eye sockets and the sides of the nose.
Photo 8
NOTE: Substitute alternate tool sizes and shapes as necessary according to the size of your project.
Part 2 of Tony’s Nose Tutorial will follow next week. Stay tuned!
Questions & Comments
Our first question this week comes from Selena Werdon from Reno, Nevada. Selena wants to know the best way to transfer patterns onto basswood eggs. Selena writes:
“I struggle with how to transfer a pattern to a basswood egg. I love the patterns in Lori Dickie’s Quick & Cute Carving Projects book and would like to know the easiest way to align them on the eggs. Keep up the good work on Wood Chip Chatter!”
That’s a great question, Selena! It’s a problem many carvers must struggle with. Because of the curved surface of the egg it is easier to transfer the pattern on section at a time.
I did some research, and after speaking with Donna Spiker, who carves gorgeous basswood eggs, this is what I found out:
Copy or trace your pattern onto a piece of tracing paper then turn it over and trace the pattern on the back side of the paper with a soft pencil. Place your pattern (right side out) against your egg and trace it onto the egg, one section at a time. A pencil, pen or stylus can be used for this. Adjust the pattern as necessary as you go. Cutting the pattern into two or three pieces helps facilitate application of the pattern. Finally, go over your tracing with a fine marker, like a micron 05 fine line marker.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Dean Stewart finished his Cod Fish carving and sent it in for this week’s “Carver’s Corner.”
“Here is my Cod Fish finished. Add it to the carvers corner of you need a photo to discuss.”
Dean Stewart’s Cod – Left side viewDean Stewart’s Cod – Right side view
Thanks for sending in your photos, Dean! As I said last time, I doesn’t look too much like flat plane but boy it sure turned out awesome! To me, it’s a perfect replica of a Cod…right down to the shape, the colors, and the markings. Fantastic job on the eyes! I honestly thought they were glass eyes. I really like it…nice work!
Bill Reifsteck sent in a comment with an interesting observation about Dean Stewart’s Cod Fish carving. Bill says:
“Regarding the fish, flat plane would probably look better on a folk art style fish…”
I think you’re absolutely right, Bill. I definitely agree.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first entry to the “Photo Shop” this week comes from Mary Reifsteck who carved a beautiful cottonwood bark castle:
Excellent job, Mary! I like all the stone work you carved, and the base you added.
Our next entry is from Nicky Foley who carved two outstanding Santa ornaments:
Nicky Foley’s Santa ornaments
Amazing job, Nicky! Great facial detail.
Next we have two entries from my good friend, Phyllis Stone from Pennsylvania. Phyllis carved a Quick Wizard from my article in Woodcarving Illustrated 2017 Spring issue #79, and a Simple Snowman ornament that she personalized from my article in Woodcarving Illustrated 2021 Winter issue #97.
Nice job, Phyllis! I like how you personalized the snowman’s hat.
Free Pattern
News & Announcements
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 310-460-3575
Schedule:
3/26 – Cam Merkle – Razortip
4/2 – Steve Tomashek
4/9 – Joe You
4/16 – Chris Hammack
4/23 – Brett Andrews
4/30 – Cecilia Schiller – Cranklady
5/7 – Ken Kuhar
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
WOOD CHIP CHATTER NEEDS YOUR PHOTOS!!!
I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share in my “Photo Shop” section. Photos of your carvings liven up the blog’s appearance and make it more interesting. Also, my “Carver’s Corner” is a great way to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. When sending in photos please specify whether you want them for display in “Photo Shop” or if you want me to critique them in the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
KEEP THE CHIPS FLYING!!!
Send in your questions and comments so we can keep Wood Chip Chatter active and keep the conversations going! Effective discussions are one of the best ways to learn about the topics that interest you. Remember, there’s no such thing as a dumb question. Plus we would all love to learn about the unique tips, techniques and products YOU use in your woodcarving process. Send your questions and comments to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
Keep a sharp edge, and keep on carvin’!
Funny Bone
If 4 out of 5 people suffer from diarrhea, does that mean 1 out of 5 people enjoy it?
The following techniques will add life to your carvings. This discussion pertains to carving long flowing hair that might be found on a mountain man, or on a woman, but it will work equally well on short hair and/or beards and mustaches, such as on Santas and wood spirits. A V-tool is often the tool of choices, however, a deep U-gouge will also work. The U-gouge will give a softer look and is especially effective on a woman’s hair. If you use a U-gouge, experiment with different sizes. A small U-gouge (the size depends on the size of the carving) will result in a busy look. More experienced carvers do not mix V- and U-cuts on the same piece.
FOUR STEPS TO CARVING HAIR
1. Make long sweeping S-cuts (Fig. 1). A common mistake when carving hair is the use of long straight cuts. Try to avoid this approach. With sweeping S-cuts your carving will take on much more character. Make the direction change in your S-cuts severe. Start by drawing an S on your carving. If it doesn’t look like an S then the lines are too straight.
Figure 1. Parallel or Serpentine Cuts
2. Change lanes periodically (Fig. 2). Pretend you are on a freeway during rush hour. Begin your S-cut adjacent to a previous cut then, after a short distance, merge into the previous cut. Use this technique frequently to add interest to your carving. Be careful not to create a repeating pattern when merging cuts.
Figure 2. Changing Lanes
3. Begin some cuts between previous cuts (Fig. 3). For example, when carving long flowing hair use the above techniques first. Start your long sweeping S-cuts at the bottom and work toward the top. After you have four or five cuts, with some lane changing, start a new cut between two previous cuts. You can incorporate lane changing with these cuts as well. Repeat this process as needed with successive cuts beginning nearer the bottom or closer the top. Avoid making a repeating pattern.
Figure 3. Begin Between Previous Cuts
4. Deepen some areas (Fig. 4). After you have carved most or all of the hair using the above techniques, go back over some areas to deepen the flow. This will create locks in the hair. WARNING: Be careful not to develop a distinct pattern doing this. Random placement of the deepened areas will make it look more natural. Also, be sure to carve the entire surface. Try to remove all flat spots between hair strands.
Figure 4. Deepen Some Areas
Once you master the above tips you will probably be quite happy with the results. But if you want to obtain spectacular results, you might try carving spiral curls (Fig. 5).
Figure 5. Hair With Spiral Curls
Questions & Comments
Our first comment this week comes from joebnv responding to last week’s article on “How to Make Dirt.” Joe comments:
“Like the idea of adding color to the 50/50 mix”
We have a question this week from Dean Stewart about how Tony Harris carved the hair on his cowboy last week. Dean asks:
“Can Tony maybe explain how he carved that cowboy’s hair. I’ve never seen anything like that. Its amazing!”
That’s a great question, Dean, and it truly does look amazing. I spoke to Tony and asked him about the hair. This is what he told me:
“I just draw different sizes of circles all over the area giving it a look of a bunch of grapes. Then start with a 5/32″ (4mm) 45° V- tool to cut out the drawn lines/circles. After that I use a detail knife to deepen the corners where the circles touch each other. Then use a 1/8″ (3mm) #11 gouge to dip out the centers of the circles. After that I’ll use a 2mm Dockyard gouge to give random cuts from the dipped out parts to give it the texture.”
The paint process Tony used was a 3-step approach with all Ceramcoat paints. First, he applied a coat of egg shell white. Next, hippo gray was tapped into the deep parts between the “clumps” of hair. Finally, after the paint was completely dried, he dry brushed black over the entire area to give the hair a salt & pepper look.
Our next question comes from Dick Bonewitz from Carmel, Indiana. Dick wants to know about using lacquer before painting.
"Have you ever used spray lacquer to seal a carving before painting? What are your thoughts on it
Thanks
Dick Bonewitz
Carmel Indiana"
Dick, I have never used spray lacquer to seal a carving before painting and don't recommend it. Lacquer is a sealer that dries hard and contains polymers which are basically components of plastic. When you paint over polymers the paint doesn't soak into the wood the way you want it to. You don't want to paint over plastic or a hard finish. You want your paints to soak into the wood.
When you seal your carving with an oil such as Walnut Oil or Mineral Oil you don't have that problem because those oils react much slower as they dry. They don't polymerize as quickly the way some other oils, lacquers and varnishes do, which allows the paint to soak into the wood before the oil is completely dry.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first entry to the “Carver’s Corner” this week comes from Michael Mahar who carved an amazing Leprechaun from a Gary Falin roughout. Michael writes: “From a Gary Falin rough out. Gary helped me working on the face at the Renegade Woodcarvers Roundup this past fall.”
I think it’s a very good carving overall, Michael. There are just two main areas that come into my mind as I look at the carving….creases and paint colors. The clothing has no creases or wrinkles. They look too stiff and flat. The use of a gouge to add wrinkles to the pants, jacket and shirt to create shadows will bring depth and life to the carving. Study some pieces of real clothing (even your own) to see all the peaks and valleys that exist and see what I mean. I would also make some cuts/creases across the tops of the shoes.
The other thing, and this is really a matter of personal preference is color choice. I feel there is too much green in the carving(that’s just me). Personally, I would make the hat band and belt black, and maybe also the short belt on the back of the jacket. Again, these are just personal preferences.
Your Leprechaun is a carving you should definitely be proud of.
Our next entry comes from Mike Dize who carved this cool one-snowman barbershop quartet.
“I gave this to my Dad who loved singing in the Barbershop Chorus. I figure….why should the snowman be limited to only one head when he has four round parts to him? He can be a quartet all by himself.”
Hoosier Snowman Quartet by Michael Dize
That’s a really cool carving, Mike…a very novel idea, and quite creative too!
I looked very carefully at your Snowman Quartet and can’t really find anything major to be changed or done differently. If I have to say, perhaps I would have ‘squished’ the balls down together just a bit more. Also, don’t make straight cuts on your mustaches. Use “S” and “C” cuts to give them more character.
I like all the different faces, which are cool snowman faces, and you did a great job on the different mouth’s and eyes. It’s a terrific carving that I’m sure your Dad loved.
Next we have three different carvings Tracy Czajkoski would like to have critiqued:
“Hello Bob,
Love your Wood Chip Chatter and appreciate your effort to put out great articles.
Loved the “HOW TO MAKE DIRT” and can’t wait to try.
Thanks for sharing your carved mule from years ago. I think it’s pretty fabulous!
I would like a couple of my carvings critiqued on Carver’s Corner.
I’ve been carving for 4 years. I live remote and work full time, so it’s hard to get to club meetings for
help and feedback. I learn a lot watching the demo’s on International Association of Woodcarvers, You Tube and magazines.
I’m going to attach my: DOG ON A SCOOTER, DAD DOG and CAT ON LOG carvings.
Critique away! I love them, but also feel they can and need to be elevated somehow. More character….something. That’s where you all come in, because I don’t know how. I got one critique from a respected woodcarver who felt my 3D carvings are more like “2D and a half” (and I get what he’s saying) but he never followed up with how to make them more dynamic.
Perhaps my cuts need to be much deeper for more shadow?
Will they pop with antiquing, which I haven’t tried.
I have since learned to carve “hair and fur” which could have helped here.
All feedback welcome. I know that’s how you get better.
Thank-you!
Tracy Czajkoski”
Thank you for sending in some photos of your work, Tracy. I'm happy to critique them. I've never heard of "2D and a half" so I don't know what your other woodcarver friend is referring to. They are nice carvings and appear to be original, but there is something about them that does not look quite right. I think your own critique is a good start though. Deeper cuts to create nice shadows are always recommended, Use a gouge to simulate creases and wrinkles in the clothing to add "life" and make your carvings look more "dynamic." Antiquing will help in some cases, but only if you've made deep cuts in the carving for the antique to sink into. Be very careful with antique! A poor antique job will ruin a perfectly good carving. Experiment on scrap wood first. Deeper cuts and better shadows will give more dimension to your carvings and give them the 3D appearance you're looking for.
If you're going to carve animals, learning to carve hair/fur is a good idea although it's not necessary on all animal carvings (for example, my mule from last week). You can also create a lot of hair/fur using a wood burner. Many carvers combine carving and wood burning on the same carving.
Personally, I would also do less sanding, for two reasons. First, because I hate sanding! Second, because you want to leave the facets from the knife marks which help give a woodcarving (particularly a caricature) its character. Lastly, go thinner with your paints. Thin them to a watery consistency and apply them in layers. It's better to paint with several thin coats of paint, and build up the color, than to apply one thick coat.
I think you're doing very well with your carvings, Tracy. The concepts are unique and whimsical. The overall execution is good, and each carving shows a lot of "motion."
Our final entry to the "Carver's Corner" this week comes from Dean Stewart who carved a flat plane fish from James Miller's book. Dean writes:
"Bob,
Here’s a picture for the Carvers Corner. This work in process fish is from James Miller’s Flat Plane carving book. I have one question. Does it look like a flat plane carving? I struggle with the concept and I think I use too many cuts."
Flat Plane Fish Carved by Dean Stewart
I‘ve never seen a flat plane fish before so I can’t say I know what one should look like. However, it does look like you have too many cuts in there, and you’ve rounded off the figure too much. I struggle with the same problem and have never been able to grasp the concept of flat plane carving. I think the key to flat plane carving is to make long, straight cuts, and not round off the corners of those cuts. A good flat plane carving has a lot of angles on it and it is not particularly smooth. I also think a fish is a harder subject to carve in the flat plane style.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first entry to the “Photo Shop” this week comes from Heath Paull who carved a really cool Gnome in a kayak. Heath writes:
“Heavily Doug Linker inspired, gnome ready or some spring deliveries.
Heath”
Excellent carving, Heath! Clean work and nice detail.
“Thanks! Happy to contribute in some way.
Really enjoying your newsletter, thanks for all the hard work and sharing.
H”
Our next entry comes from Jim Johnson of Michigan who made a nice modification to my ‘Simple Santa Ornament’ from my article in the Woodcarving Illustrated 2021 Winter Issue #97.
“Bob – I took your ‘Simple Snowman Ornament’, and modified it to be a snow lady for my granddaughter. I think it turned out pretty well.
Since you said the traffic had slowed down, I thought I would send this.
I enjoy your blogs – thanks for doing this.
Jim Johnson – Michigan”
Jim Johnson’s Snow Lady
I love it, Jim! It’s a great change up to my original. Thank you so much for sending it in! I greatly appreciate your contribution and I’m glad you’re enjoying Wood Chip Chatter.
Next, we have photos of two carvings Tim Sisko carved of “Hammerin’ Hank” from Kevin Applegate roughouts. “Hammerin’ Hank” is featured in the current 2022 Spring issue of Woodcarving Illustrated:
“Bob, attached are several photos of the carvings I recently completed from roughouts by Kevin Applegate. Hammerin’ Hank was featured in Woodcarving Illustrated Spring issue 2022. I would appreciate your critique of them and if you would like to they could be used in your “Photo Shop “
Thank you for your input.
Tim Sisko”
Tim Sisko’s “Hamerin’ Hank” with Yellow ShirtTim Sisko’s “Hamerin’ Hank” with Red Shirt
Thanks for the photos, Tim! I always appreciate getting them. Both of your carvings are fantastic, and look very much like the original carved by Kevin Applegate. They are well carved with clean cuts, and well painted. There are just a couple minor observations I made, though, that you might want to keep in mind for next time:
Make the bridge of the nose just a bit narrower and push it back into the face a little bit more. The bridge of the nose should be pushed further back into the face than the nostrils.
The hair flow on the sideburns is incorrect (flows in the wrong direction). The hair should go from the upper right to the lower left on the right sideburn, and from the upper left to the lower right on the left sideburn, if the makes any sense (refer to the two photos below).
“Louisiana Luke” Bottle Stopper – Right Side“Louisiana Luke” Bottle Stopper – Left Side
In reality, the eye brows don’t touch the sideburns, although these are caricatures where ‘anything goes’ so they look good the way they are.
Overall your carvings are terrific. The carving work and painting are both well done, and I particularly like the way you carved the hammers.
Finally we have an amazing Chef Santa carved by Wayne Arrowsmith and painted by his good friend, Deb. Wayne writes:
"Good morning Bob,
I am attaching pics of my Chef carving. It’s a “Scott Carvings” rough out that I purchased and then once carved I handed it over to a good friend who wanted to paint it for me. Yes it was supposed to be a Chef Santa but Deb put her own creative spin on the painting.
Thank you for the well written article from last week on making dirt. Very informative!"
Chef Santa – Front ViewChef Santa – Left Side ViewChef Santa – Back View
Thanks for the photos, and the kind words about my article from last week. Both are greatly appreciated. Your Chef Santa looks terrific! You and Deb make a great team!
News & Announcements
WOW! I’m blown away by the overwhelming amount of contributions to Wood Chip Chatter this week! I appreciate it more than you know. It’s contributions like these that drive the engine which makes Wood Chip Chatter work. I hope more and more of you will continue to contribute as we go forward. Thank you so much for your support!
Lancaster County Woodcarvers Show
It was a real pleasure to meet and chat with so many of you at the Lancaster County Woodcarvers Show last weekend. It’s always nice to finally match a face with a person you’ve been corresponding with over the internet for so long.
Despite the blizzard-like conditions on Saturday the show was a giant success. Even in the snow storm on Saturday 150 guests managed to make it to the show, and on Sunday with much nicer weather 400 guests came in.
The carving competition on Saturday was also a big success and I’m humbled to say that I managed to win 4 ribbons, which included 2 First Place awards. The carving seminars which went on throughout the show were very well attended, and there were some terrific prizes handed out as door prizes as well as in the silent auctions. If you missed the show this year, make plans to be there next year (March 11 & 12)! This Blog ran kind of long so perhaps I will be able to put some show photos in next week’s Blog.
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Many times when you make a carving (particularly a small one) you want to put it into a diorama, or little scene with added accessories such as docks, fences, and other little carvings to go with it. If your scene is going to be set on the ground you will probably want to use some kind of sand or dirt to make it look more realistic. The tutorial below shows you how to make realistic looking dirt which will really add to your diorama’s authenticity.
How to Make Dirt
1. Take a cup of coffee grounds, add 1/4 cup white fluffy beach sand. Mix completely while it is dry.
2. Mist spray very lightly, do not let it clump. Fluff up the mix.
3. Using a teaspoon, place the mix where you need on your carving.
4. Next mist lightly to settle it down to get it ready for the glue mix.
5. Mix 50/50 Elmer’s white glue and water. Mix, do not shake, you do not want bubbles in it.
6. Take a few drops of burnt sienna acrylic paint and mix. It should look like chocolate milk.
7. Take an eye dropper or pipette and drop the glue on the “new earth”, and make sure you do not allow it to get beyond the edge of your dirt.
8. Let dry overnight.
The great thing is you can come back and add more dirt if needed and it will glue in place very well. The coffee will stain the sand and you get a pretty good representation of the real thing.
Reader’s Comments
There are no comments or questions from our readers this week.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Since we don’t have any entries to the “Carver’s Corner” again this week I’m sharing some photos of a mule I carved about 50 years ago when I first started out in wood carving. I hope you like it.
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
This week we have an entry to the “Photo Shop” from my good friend, Tony Harris, of a praying cowboy he recently carved.
That’s an exceptional job you did on that carving, Tony! The detailed carving and coloring are spot on! Great work, my friend!
Free Pattern!
News & Announcements
THIS WEEKEND!!!
The Lancaster County Woodcarving & Wildlife Art Festival at Millersville University, Millersville, PA. March 12 & 13; Sat. 10 to 5, Sun. 10 to 4. Located in the Student Memorial Center, 101 Shenk Lane on your GPS (the entrance is across the street from this address). Masks are optional but not required as previously announced. I will be at Tables 67 & 68, so stop by and chat for awhile!
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 3104603575
Schedule:
3/12 – Roger Beane
3/19 – Ray Meyer
3/26 – Cam Merkle – Razortip
4/2 – Steve Tomashek
4/9 – Joe You
4/16 – Chris Hammack
4/23 – Brett Andrews
4/30 – Cecilia Schiller – Cranklady
5/14 – Dana Kababik – Carving Junkies
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
The Jersey Hills Wood Carvers (JHWC) club is a small but growing group of wood carvers sharing their time, knowledge and joy of woodcarving. The JHWC generally meets from 7:00 pm to 9:00 pm on the 1st, 3rd and 5th Thursday of each month (when school is in session) at the Jefferson Township High School wood shop classroom.
Membership is “FREE” and open to anyone interested in woodcarving regardless of their ability.
Contributions to “Carver’s Corner” and “Photo Shop” have wistfully slowed to a crawl. I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share. Photos of your carvings not only liven up the Blog’s appearance but they are a huge part of what makes Wood Chip Chatter interesting.
“Carver’s Corner” is a great place to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. “Photo Shop” is a great place to show off your work!
Your questions, comments and photos are what Wood Chip Chatter is all about. They are all a vital part of what makes this Blog what it is. Send them in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com and let’s keep the wood chips flying!
Research shows that tree species now growing in North America existed long before the country was inhabited by man: maples as long ago as sixty million years; and poplars, oaks, pines, elms and possibly other trees grew here during the Ice Age. Greenland is named because of its trees, to differentiate from Iceland, which is almost without trees.
There are about 180 different species of trees in the United States that may be ranked as commercially important, although only relatively few species of wood are ordinarily readily available except in large cities.
The individual states of the United States have long recognized the importance of trees, and each state has selected a particular tree with which to identify itself. This has been done by acts of the state legislatures, by garden clubs, by vote of the people, or, in some cases, because it is the most prominent or most valuable tree growing in the state. New York State took the lead in 1889 in selecting the sugar maple as its official tree, and was followed by the other states.
Below, the states are listed alphabetically with the common name of the tree:
STATECOMMON NAME
Alabama – Longleaf pine
Alaska – Sitka spruce
Arizona – Blue paloverde
Arkansas – Shortleaf pine
California – California redwood
Colorado – Blue spruce
Connecticut – White oak
Delaware – American holly
District of Columbia – None (although sycamore and black cherry are mentioned on some lists)
Florida – Cabbage palmetto (cabbage palm)
Georgia – Live oak
Hawaii – Kukiu (candlenut)
Idaho – Western white pine
Illinois – Bur oak
Indiana – Tulip tree (yellow poplar)
Iowa – American black walnut
Kansas – Cottonwood
Louisiana – Southern magnolia
Maine – Eastern white pine
Maryland – White oak
Massachusetts – American elm
Michigan – Eastern white pine
Minnesota – Red pine (also called Norway pine)
Mississippi – Southern magnolia
Missouri – Dogwood
Montana – Ponderosa pine
Nebraska – American elm
Nevada – Singleleaf pinyon pine (aspen is also sometimes referred to as the state tree)
New Hampshire – White birch
New Jersey – Northern red oak
New Mexico – Pinyon pine
New York – Sugar maple
North Carolina – None (although yellow poplar is sometimes mentioned)
North Dakota – American elm
Ohio – Buckeye
Oklahoma – Eastern redbud
Oregon – Douglas fir
Pennsylvania – Eastern hemlock
Rhode Island – Red maple
South Carolina – Cabbage palmetto
South Dakota – Black Hills spruce
Tennessee – Tulip tree (yellow poplar)
Texas – Pecan
Utah – Blue spruce
Vermont – Sugar maple
Virginia – Dogwood
Washington – Western hemlock
West Virginia – Sugar maple
Wisconsin – Sugar maple
Wyoming – Balsam poplar (sometimes referred to by the general name “cottonwood”)
Source: “Know Your Woods” by Albert Constantine Jr.
Reader’s Comments
I‘m happy to see we have a good number of reader’s comments and questions this week. As you know, it’s your contributions, like these that help make Wood Chip Chatter the informative Blog it is.
Our first comment this week comes from Heath about last week’s Blog on “Cleaning Paint Brushes.” Heath writes:
“Great info on cleaning brushes, thanks!”
I‘m glad it was helpful, Heath!
Our next comment comes from my friend Stephen Campbell about an older Blog on “Human Face & Body Proportions.” Stephen says:
“Thanks for the anatomy charts. I’ve always had problems with proportion and alignment such as eyes.”
You’re welcome, Stephen! I hope many other readers found it helpful as well.
Stephen also commented on how much he enjoying carving Gnomes lately:
“Hey Bob!
I have fancied carving gnomes since I painted a male gnomes with my grandsons in Wichita at a Hobbie shop there. I liked your article about a female gnomes and will try to carve one. Maybe a grandma gnomes!
I really enjoy your Wood Chip site!”
Gnomes are fun subjects for wood carvers.There are lots of ways you can change them up and female Gnomes add more carving options. I‘m glad you’re enjoying Wood Chip Chatter!
This next entry is from my good friend Phyllis Stone who want to tell us about the Christmas tree ornaments he little group carves each year:
“Hi Bob,
A small carving group I’m in, in Lancaster, in conjunction with the Lancaster County Woodcarvers, carve ornaments every year and decorate a small Christmas tree. We then donate the tree to our local hospice and the patients and family are given the opportunity to take an ornament and keep it as a remembrance. It’s been very popular for the last 12 years. I think between the 2 groups we carve about 100 or so ornaments each year.
It might be something other groups might be interested in doing. Oh, hospice always gives us the tree back so we don’t forget to carve ornaments the following year.
The picture is just of a few of us that go deliver the tree and decorate it on site.”
Phyllis’s Group’s Christmas Tree
What a fun activity for any wood carving club or small group to do, and for an especially good cause right before the holidays. Unfortunately, your picture is blurry but we get the idea. Kudos to you and your group of carvers!
Our last entry comes from Robert Nesbitt in response to last week’s Blog on “Cleaning Paint Brushes.” Robert writes:
“Bob, Another great lesson on care and cleaning of paint brushes. I also use the Master’s product and clean the brushes as you described. Like you I try to use good brushes as well, so my question to you is what brand to you prefer? I also have been finishing my carvings with the mineral oil process as you wrote about. I need to get some photos out to you as well. Regards, RJ Nes Carver”
Thank you for your kind comment, Robert! It is much appreciated.
The brushes I use are kind of middle of the road in price. You don’t need real expensive brushes as wood tends to be rough on them, but I don’t like the really cheap ones that often come in packaged sets. My favorite brand of brush is “Royal & Langnickel”, which I get in the craft store (Michael’s).
Royal & Langnickel paint brushes
These brushes have synthetic (polyester) hairs, which are the best kind to be used with acrylic paints, and come with a clear plastic, comfortable soft-grip handle. They are available in many sizes and shapes such as shader, liner, spotter, round, etc.
Some natural hair brush brands I’ve used are “Golden Natural” and “Simply Simmons”, but the natural hair brushes don’t hold up as well as the synthetic ones and tend to get ratty quickly.
Carver’s Corner
“Carver’s Corner” is the section where you can send in photos of your carvings to have them critiqued by me and get my truthful opinions on what you did right and where you might improve next time. It’s an excellent opportunity to improve your carving skills! Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Since we don’t have any entries to the “Carver’s Corner” this week I thought I would just show you one of my elf ornament carvings, “Lars”, which was a top ribbon winner in both, regional and national competitions. I hope you like it.
“Lars”
Photo Shop
“Photo Shop” is the section of Wood Chip Chatter where carvers can send in photos of their wood carvings for display. It’s your chance to show off your work…sort of a show and tell. The photos will only be displayed and no comments or critiques will be made. For critiques on your carvings send them in to the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com.
Our first (only) entry to the “Photo Shop” this week comes from Dean Stewart who carved a beautiful ring for a friend. Dean writes:
“Bob
This boar carving is a ring. It’s a gift for a medieval re-enactor. The boar is their insignia. I originally intended to paint it but I didn’t think I could give it the look I wanted so the face stayed natural and the band is painted copper. Prior to painting is was coated in mineral oil. Once painted and dry it was finished with Howard’s Feed and Wax.”
Dean’s Boar Ring – front viewDean’s Boar Ring – side viewDean’s Boar Ring – back view
It looks great, Dean! Nice detail in such a small carving. I’m sure you friend appreciated it.
News & Announcements
I would like to welcome all the new folks who became Wood Chip Chatter subscribers in the past month. I’m happy you have decided to join and experience all the unusual, fun and interesting information that will come your way every week.
Welcome aboard and thank you for subscribing!
Announcing that I will be at the Lancaster County Woodcarving & Wildlife Art Festival at Millersville University, Millersville, PA. March 12 & 13; Sat. 10 to 5, Sun. 10 to 4. Located in the Student Memorial Center, 101 Shenk Lane on your GPS (the entrance is across the street from this address). Masks are optional but not required as previously announced. I will be at Tables 67 & 68, so stop by and chat for awhile!
The International Association of Woodcarvers has upcoming Zoom meetings on the following Saturdays at 3PM EST with special guest presenters. Check them out…
Zoom: 3104603575
Schedule:
3/5 – Rich Schneider
3/12 – Roger Beane
3/19 – Ray Meyer
3/26 – TBD
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF WOODCARVERS
COME JOIN US!!!
WOOD CHIP CHATTER NEEDS YOUR PHOTOS!!!
I’m sure you all have some terrific carvings to share in my “Photo Shop” section. Photos of your carvings help to liven up the blog’s appearance and make it more interesting. Also, my “Carver’s Corner” is a great way to get constructive critiques on your carvings so you can learn where to improve on your next ones. When sending in photos please specify whether you want them for display in “Photo Shop” or if you want me to critique them in the “Carver’s Corner.” Send your photos in to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
KEEP THE CHIPS FLYING!!!
Send in your questions and comments so we can keep Wood Chip Chatter active and keep the conversations going! Effective discussions are one of the best ways to learn about the topics that interest you. Remember, there’s no such thing as a dumb question. Plus we would all love to learn about the unique tips, techniques and products YOU use in your woodcarving process. Send your questions and comments to carverbobk@woodchipchatter.com. Thanks!
Wood Chip Chatter 